Makaira Lee launched her fashion label, By Kai, with a solo show at New Zealand Fashion Week. The 29-look collection debuted in just over six weeks, a feat Lee accomplished with her family’s help. This achievement is particularly notable, as few designers get the opportunity to launch their label with a solo show at Fashion Week. Lee described the process as “a huge undertaking,” given the tight timeline and the scale of the project.
The line blends Fijian heritage with a resortwear twist. Textured fabrics like raffia, shell, and wood reflect Lee’s cultural roots, while silhouettes draw from saris and men’s sulus. These elements are deeply personal, as Lee grew up surrounded by a family of talented seamstresses, including her mother, Jeannie, whose expertise in fabric and construction was instrumental in bringing the collection to life. The use of natural fabrics like calico and drill adds a utilitarian edge, while cotton and silk provide softness and breathability, ideal for warmer climates.
A Family Affair
Lee, an art director and stylist, collaborated with her mother, Jeannie, a talented seamstress, to bring the debut collection, “When are you coming home?” to life. Every piece was locally made in Aotearoa, emphasizing the label’s commitment to craftsmanship and community. Lee’s background in styling and art direction, combined with her mother’s technical skills, created a unique cooperation that defined the collection’s aesthetic. The name of the collection itself is a poignant question, reflecting Lee’s connection to her roots and the emotional depth of her work.
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The collection also took inspiration from Lee and her husband Kane’s Fijian wedding. The show opened with natural cotton-canvas looks, nodding to their bridal party and featuring traditional Fijian accessories, including the salusalu Kane wore on their wedding day. These details not only celebrate Fijian culture but also add a layer of personal narrative to the collection, making it a love letter to Lee’s heritage and her loved ones.
Effortless Yet Raised
By Kai’s aesthetic is described as “quietly sensual, effortlessly cool, and grounded by a tomboy edge.” The line aims for thoughtful design and beautiful craftsmanship, creating clothing that feels effortless yet raised. This balance is evident in pieces like the Kai Cargo Set, which Lee cites as a favorite for its relaxed yet refined quality. The collection’s storytelling approach, unfolding like a narrative, reflects Lee’s intention to create clothing that resonates with people’s lives and memories.
The Resort 2027 collection unfolded like a story, starting with the wedding-inspired looks and moving into modern resort wear and effortless occasion wear. It closed with a reimagined version of Lee’s wedding two-piece. This circular structure mirrors the journey of a destination wedding, from the initial celebration to the lasting memories it creates. The collection’s versatility ensures that each piece can be worn in various contexts, from formal events to casual outings.
The collection’s casting, led by Apela Bell, included eight models who walked exclusively for the brand, including Evie Ashby and Annie Rose, who flew in especially for the show. Apela and Lee have worked together for many years, and many of the models have shared significant moments in both of their careers. The cast was built not only around the clothes but around the history, trust, and community Apela and Lee have supported over the years.
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A Labor of Love
Lee and her mother had just over five weeks to bring the collection to life, working full-time and then sewing into the early hours. A few weeks in, they realized there was no way they would get to the finish line alone, so they brought two more incredible women into production. I also collaborated with local bag designer Georgia Jay on a series of custom pieces for the show. The bags incorporated woven leather, wooden beads, and shells that felt completely at home in the world of By Kai. It’s pretty special that every element, from the clothing to the bags, was designed and made here in Aotearoa.
By Kai’s first drop is expected in November, featuring ready-to-wear styles from the runway, including fringed camisoles, bikini tops, sheer dresses, and two-piece cargo sets. These pieces are designed to be versatile, allowing wearers to incorporate them into their daily lives while still feeling raised. Lee’s hope is that these garments will become integral to people’s stories, accompanying them through life’s most meaningful moments.
Lee hopes By Kai becomes a part of people’s stories, creating pieces they live in, dance in, and fall in love in.